Alrighty guys, trying something new out here that I’m not 100% sold on as a format for articles, but enough people were interested that I thought I would give this a go.
Basically this is “I painted for an hour and took pictures along the way” and then a little explanation of what I’m doing. I hope you guys find it useful/entertaining/worth a read! I’m sure as I do more of these they will get more refined.
Side note before we begin - it’s real nerve wracking seeing pics of what you’re working on SO BIG.
I’ve primed this Immortal with a Zenithal prime, that is to say I’ve gone and primed him black and then gently sprayed white from the top and 45 degrees around him. I didn’t take any pics of the primered step since….yeah primer haha.
If you’re curious what I’m using to hold this dude with, I wrote a tutorial on that already and it’s here.
I’m going for a very ceramic - ish style on these guys for the most part, so we started with a couple of thin layers of P3 Frostbite on all of the surfaces that are going to be “white”. I very rarely do white colors as pure white, it’s almost always better to do an off white, a shade or two, and then a pure white edgelight or deliberate highlight.
After I did that, I took some P3 Coal Black and I thinned it way down to a glaze. Glazes are ludicrously thinned down paints that you can easily blend out. They’re thinner than washes in most cases, and require lots of layers.
Or not in this case since Coal Black is WAY darker than Frostbite, and this is what one layer of glaze (and blending out the edge that’s closest to the top of your screen looks like.
And another pic of one layer, but on both sides of the sword. I’m doing the glazes on opposite sides not because that’s necessarily how that would look in reality, but because it makes the contrast deeper and the model pops more.
Here’s another layer of glaze on, see how it’s darker at the extremes? I think I ended up doing 4? layers of glaze total.
And then here’s a highlight with P3 Morrow White, also done as a glaze in 2 layers. If you do white thick, it won’t blend out very well and you’ll get chalky, weird looking edges of the blend that isn’t so nice. Sorry for the slightly blurrier photo, remembering to take photos at all is kind of a challenge.
(also at some point in here, my purple squeeze bottle decided to explode on my wet palette - yayyyy)
Here’s the rest of the model shaded and highlighted. I think at some point I go back and do some more edgelights but…I can’t remember.
Now we start with the Jade. This unit has Jade accents instead of the Obsidian that will be on unit number 2. We basecoat with Vallejo Game Color Jade Green. This stuff I tend to basecoat in one go since it’s pretty opaque.
We then take some P3 Bog Moss and highlight a lot of the green areas. This looks pretty messy because I’m going to go back with some glazes later and make the transitions smoother. Glazes can make rough blending smooth out really nicely.
Then we took some Daler Rowney Payne’s Grey Ink mixed with some P3 Thornwood Green and did some dark shading and a bit of dark lining on the Jade bits. I honestly got pretty frustrated here (my brush is giving up the ghost and my new ones aren’t here yet) so I decided to take a break from trying to make this work and work on something slightly more fun.
I also took some P3 Sanguine Highlight and picked out a couple of accents.
Freehand time! (Yes my brushes are dying, but freehand is way more fun than shading and darklining so I made it work).
This is more of the Thornwood Green to tie in with the rest of the model. Just some very basic lines in place for now, we will shade and highlight them a bit more when my new brushes get here.
We use the Sanguine Highlight to block in some cherry blossoms on the branches, and then we mix in a little bit of white and add highlights to those spots using smaller dots. This is another area that I’ll have to go in and refine when I have a brush with an actual point, but it’s enough to get a general idea of what this is going to look like.
We still need to do:
Glazing on the Jade
Refining the flower petals
Something to make this dude stand out since he’s the leader model (not sure what yet, ideas?)
Base/arcs/unit number. I’m using the Japanese symbol Ichi, or one, for these guys since they’re the first unit.
So look forward to another little piece on finishing this guy up! He’s number 7 of 10, so we’re getting close to done with this unit, and then we get to try out something new.
If you enjoyed this, please let me know! It’s a new format for articles that isn’t in the norm for what I normally write, but I certainly wouldn’t mind writing more of them. If you think I can improve things (both with the article and the model), leave me a comment as well!
Thanks for reading, and see you next time.